Common Types of Leather

There are a lot of different types of leather and many terms that can be confusing even to those who normally work with the stuff.  Here is a short list of some of the more common terms you will find on this website or in the industry.  This list doesn’t cover all the types and terms used in the industry but it does cover many of the common ones.

Carved Leather Purse

Cordovan

Back leather from horses tanned with special processes to make it withstand water and wear well.

Full Grain Leather

The grain side of the leather is not sanded or otherwise treated to hide scars or marks.

Chrome Tanned Leather

Leather that has be tanned with chromium salts.  This kind of leather often has a blue-green center and is somewhat water repellant.  It is one of the most common types of leather consumers see on a day to day basis.  Almost all your clothing leathers are made by this technique.

Suede

Leather cut from the back side of a hide of full grain leather and is often brushed or abraded to give it a velvety surface.  

Napa

Usually an aniline dyed calfskin, sheepskin or goatskin.  Usually a very soft leather.  These types of leather are used when exceptional softness and a luxury feeling are needed.

Nubuck

An aniline dyed leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side.  Sensitive to dirt and hard to clean.

Elk 

Soft and durable leather made from Elk hides.  

Deer

Soft and durable leather made from deer hides.  Generally does not come from wild animals but instead from animals raised in captivity.

Kangaroo 

A durable and soft leather commonly used in braiding items like whips.  Also useful in high wear items.

Ostrich

Made from ostrich hides and frequently used in fashion items.  The leather has distinctive surface with raised bumps where the feathers used to attach.  Sometimes this also refers to leather made from the legs of the ostrich which has a bumpy or almost scaly look.

Rawhide

Untanned leather that is scrapped, soaked and treated with lime to make it stiff and brittle when dry.  Used in some leather products for its toughness.

Split Leather

This is the bottom of a full grain hide that has been cut off with a long sharp knife.  This can be used to make suede or it can be stained and finished to look like full grain leather as a low cost alternative to a full grain hide.

Vegetable Tanned Leather

This leather is tanned using plant extracts that give it special properties that allow it to be carved or stamped.  The process is lengthy and sometimes takes months.  This is the kind of leather I use for all the carved or stamped items I make.  It’s also the kind used to make western saddles.

Alligator Leather

Leather made from the skins of alligators.  Recognizable by the large scales and can be easily mistaken for Crocodile leather.

Crocodile Leather

Very similar to alligator leather except crocodile hides can often have knobby projections from the surface.

Crust Leather

Crust is a term used for leather that has been tanned but has not had dyes or finishes applied.

 

How is Leather Made?

Leather Tanning 

So how is leather made?

 

While leather is made from the hides of cows, the way it’s processed is different depending on the type of leather to be made.

 

Most leather is made for use in clothing and it’s tanned using chrome salts.  This is a fairly quick and cost effective process that makes most of the kinds of leather you run into in your daily lives.

 

The kind of leather used for the carving my artwork is made in a different way.  It is called vegetable tanned leather (or veg tan for short) and it goes through a much longer process.  Vegetable tanned leather gets its name from the fact that plant parts like bark are used to do the tanning.  This process gives the leather much different properties than the kinds of leather used for shoes or clothing.

 

 

 

Veg tan leather carving
Floral carving in leather.

” Vegetable tanned leather gets its name from the fact that plant parts like bark are used to do the tanning.”

The video at left is a tour of the Hermann Oak Tannery in St Louis Missouri.  This tannery has been making leather since 1881 and is one of the premier leather tanneries in the US today.  The vegetable tanned leather they produce is the preferred choice of many US saddle makers and other leather workers.  This video is a fascinating tour showing all the processes for making leather from raw hides to finished leather.  

 

Thanks to Weaver Leather for posting this informative video!